Zero Waste Pattern Cutting

Today we had a lecture from Fiona Mills about zero waste pattern cutting methods. I was shocked to learn that 15-20% of fabrics used in the fashion industry are thrown away as wastage at the pattern cutting, however with this method every piece of the fabric is used in the final product. Zero waste pattern cutting plays a big part in eco friendly fashion but it is not a very well known or widely used method so I found this lecture very interesting.

Fiona started off the lecture with a brief history of where zero waste pattern cutting first came from. The idea of using every piece of the fabric dates back to some of the earliest garments in existence, that were made by draping and wrapping a large piece of fabric around the body without cutting or sewing to make a shape.

Modern zero waste methods however involve creating a pattern or several patterns using the entire length and width of a piece of fabric. Consequently the choice of fabric size is key to the shape it will create.

Fiona then introduced us to some modern designers who work in this way...

Timo Rissanen- 

minimal seams pattern cutting

Mark Liu- 

integrates his trims and decoration 

into the patterns

Holly McQuillan-

tessellation pattern cutting

Lastly she discussed the use of excess fabrics being utilised throughout a collection as trims, accessories etc, which is a really easy way of quickly reducing the unused fabric left over. This lecture has really made me think about my own pattern cutting practice and has definitely encouraged me to reduce my own fabric wastage by applying some of these methods.